Dialed Blog
What is the Difference Between Bike Frames? A Comprehensive Guide...
What is the difference between entry level, mid-range, and high-end bike frames? If you’re reading this, you’re likely in the throes of hunting for a bike. There’s also a good chance that you’re a bit lost as to what makes the most sense when it comes to buying a bike because the price range is vast and wide! So, what the heck is the difference between a $1200 bike and a $12,000 bike? This question just might have your head spinning, and finding what best suits your needs and budget has you chasing your tail instead of being out on a glorious bike ride. Whether you are brand new to cycling, have been riding for a little while and are ready for an upgrade, or the last time you bought a bike Reagan was still in office, we think we can help bring some clarity while helping point you in the right direction. “…carbon bikes come in many form factors and variations based on the way the frames are built.” Frame Types Chances are, you’re looking at either a carbon or some type of metal / alloy bike, and the differences between these frame materials will definitely have a significant impact on the cost of the bike. In fact, the frame can be the most expensive component of the entire bike. Wheels, drivetrains, power meters, and other components can also cause the overall cost to skyrocket, so we will get to those in another post. Let’s start by asking a few questions that will help us out here: What is your budget? What kind of riding to you plan to be doing, and how often do you plan to ride? Racing Commuting Recreational Are you the hard-core “I’m gonna ride in all weather conditions” type, and how hard are you on bikes in general? Is a used bike potentially an option for you? NEW Bikes Available at the Lab! Learn more PRE-OWNED Bikes Available at the Lab! Learn more Your Budget There are so many incredible bikes out there to choose from, and the different manufacturers, especially many of the bigger ones, seem to have budget options that work for most everyone. But what are you not getting when you buy a $2000 bike that you get with an $8000 bike? That is a really good question that you should definitely be asking yourself! Spoiler alert, you’re going to enjoy whatever bike you choose because it’s hard to not have fun riding; however, there are some differences that can have an effect on that fun factor when we break down the options. Some of these factors are quite significant, and others are pretty marginal. Here are some of the differences and what to expect. Frame Type Without a bike frame, you just have a pile of parts! So, let’s see if we can help you determine what is best for you! In most cases, an entry level bike in the sub $2000 price range is likely to be made from an alloy material or a carbon fiber that is more budget friendly. But how does “budget friendly” translate to a completed bike frame? Is it really that different? Let’s find out… Entry level bikes are generally quite a bit heavier than their premium counter parts, they are not as compliant (meaning that they are not as stiff or forgiving in the places you want them to be), and they are not quite as performance driven. The manufacturing process for all bike frames is quite impressive when you take into account the materials that are used, how they are designed, and techniques used to actually build the frames. However, the variations in the processes are just as vast. Two bikes with the exact same shapes and geometry, but made with different materials and production processes can have significantly different ride feels, performance characteristics, and overall weights. So, metal / alloy bikes, lower modulus carbon bikes, and high modulus carbon bikes will be noticeably different, especially after you spend some time on each of them. What is the difference between metal/alloy bikes and carbon bikes? Carbon Bike Frames Carbon fiber is rated based on its tinsel strength, so the higher modulus carbon is going to be stiffer, which is more efficient and handles better. If a carbon fiber is too high modulus, though, it can become brittle, so there is a balance to all of this in order to give the bike frame greater performance values while being safe and durable at the same time. In addition to the carbon fiber, the resin used, which is a key component to the carbon bike production process, can make a pretty significate impact on the frame. If more resin is required to build the frame, the frame will be heavier and not perform nearly as well. The build process can be quite different, too. Some frames are made by bonding together individual carbon fiber tubes with a type of glued insert, which is a more cost-effective process that brings the price down, but the bike will not feel as snappy and will be heavier. Some high-end carbon bikes use modified monocoque construction, which means that the head tube, downtube, top tube, and seat tube consist of one continuous piece. This process is going to produce a bike that is lighter with greater performance, but it is much more labor intensive and requires more expensive materials. Carbon bikes come in many form factors and variations based on the way the frames are built: The resin used The thickness of the carbon and resin layers The quality of carbon fiber The density and types of fibers used The direction of the fibers (this affects the compliancy and performance) The frame construction process The way the frame materials are heated Advantages. Carbon bikes are widely regarded as the industry standard, and for good reason. They can be almost whatever you want them to be when it comes to how they ride, perform, and how much they weigh. Have you ever picked up an eleven-pound bike? Yes, these exist and it will blow your mind! You can derive just about whatever you want out of a carbon bike when it comes to ride characteristics, performance, durability, stiffness, and comfort. The versatility makes them the go to choice for everyone from world tour pro’s to armature racers to cycling enthusiasts with a long list of needs and demands. Disadvantages. Carbon bikes can get real expensive real fast. If you’re looking for a more budget friendly option, an entry level carbon frame might not always be your best option based on the materials and build process used. Though tough, carbon can be damaged somewhat easy if you take a spill or don’t properly store the bike. You can generally fix damaged frames, but it gets quite pricey to have it done right. Steel Bike Frames There are a lot of people who prefer the feeling of a steel bike, and in some cases, they can provide decent performance as well. Steel has been one of the most commonly used materials to make bikes for many, many years. However, it does have its own pros and cons, so let’s take a closer look. Advantages. Steel bikes made from chromoly are very strong and built to last. Chromoly steel is a type of low alloy steel that gets its name from a combination of the words “chromium” and “molybdenum,” which are two of the major alloying elements. Chromoly steel is often used when more strength is required than that of mild carbon steel, though it often comes at an increase in cost. Additionally, steel frames can be made lighter and stronger using a production method called butting, which is when the wall thickness of a tube is changed as you move through its length. This allows for sections to be thicker where you need great strength (think near joints), and thinner & lighter where you don’t need it (think in the middle of a tube). In short, the tube’s wall thickness is changed by removing excess material that isn’t needed for strength or performance in a given section of the frame, which can yield a frame with a good strength to weight ratio. This can also produce a smoother ride as it can mitigate a lot of the roughness of a road because of the compliance of the butted frame build. And for those of you with kiddos or critters that rip around the house like the Tasmanian Devil, or those of you with the knack of treating all of your belongings like bowling pins, the steel bike is gonna take a lickin’ and keep on tickin’. They are super durable and tough as nails. Finally, the price tag doesn’t require you to back up the Brinks truck to your local bike shop with all of your hard-earned money! Disadvantages. Despite all of the efforts to make the bike lighter and stronger, they are still really heavy when compared to their carbon counterparts. On a complete bike, this could be upwards of 10, 15, or even 20 pounds more additional weight, which can be a lot if you like to ride in the hills or rolling countryside. If you are interested in getting into competitive cycling, this can be a real disadvantage. You also need to be mindful of caring for the bike when it comes to the elements. Steel can corrode, so riding it in wet conditions will absolutely mean that you need to be more diligent about taking care of the bike with proper cleaning, service, and maintenance. In addition to the weight issue, know that if you ride a lot in wet conditions, commute year-round, or don’t want to spend extra time caring for your bike, you likely want to look at other options. Aluminum Bike Frames Aluminum tends to be very popular and for good reason. Like it’s steel cousin, it has great stiffness qualities. However, you don’t get all of the extra weight as a penalty. This is why many bike manufacturers have moved to aluminum as a lower cost alternative to their carbon bikes. Aluminum frames are also alloyed (mixed/blended with other metals) to increase the stiffness while keeping the weight down. And like steel frames, aluminum frames can also be butted to help enhance that right balance of strength and weight. Advantages. Like steel bikes, aluminum bikes are very durable and can take a lot of punishment. They don’t have exactly the same level of durability as steel, but it can be said that it is in the same ballpark. Unlike steel, you can rest at ease when it comes to the rust and corrosion issues as this is not a concern with aluminum frames. Also, because aluminum is an easy metal to work with, manufacturers can go to pretty great lengths to form it into different shapes in order to accommodate everything from mountain bike suspension to road bike aerodynamics and everything in between. Aluminum bikes also have a great strength to weight ratio that is greatly appreciated and sought after by the performance driven cyclist. Finally, all of this comes in a much more financially friendly package… You won’t get as many frequent flier miles on your credit card, but you’ll have a few bucks left over to get that new helmet and set of tubeless tires you’ve always wanted! Disadvantages. As we mentioned, aluminum is durable, but it’s not as durable as steel and it does come with a tradeoff in that it does fatigue over time. Additionally, and unlike steel and carbon frames, aluminum frames are very difficult and cost prohibitive to repair. So, unfortunately, once an aluminum frame stars to get to the end of the road, it’s off to the recycle bin with your soda cans and beat up mailbox. Some applaud the stiffness of aluminum, but in the same breath, they do not come with the same smooth ride quality of carbon or steel bikes. Many cyclists with shy away from aluminum’s more harsh ride quality because it’s just not as comfortable on long rides. Though this has gotten better over the years, many cyclists turn to carbon because it is hands down a more compliant ride. Titanium Bike Frames Bonus material: Titanium! We won’t go into too much depth here as titanium bikes do have one big downside, but we felt they deserved a mention. Ti bikes are super strong, they have a great ride quality and compliance, and they are probably the most durable option you can get in a frame. They eat ‘wear and tear’ for breakfast and brush off corrosion like crumbs from a table, and because of this, many manufacturers provide some stellar warranties (many are lifetime) with their frames as they are nearly indestructible. So, why doesn’t everyone ride a titanium bike, you ask? Well, simply put, they are quite expensive due to materials and labor, are not as readily available making them more difficult to find, can be expensive to repair, and do require a bit of expertise. If the money component doesn’t detour you, definitely consider checking out a titanium bike as they are beautiful head turners that have a lot of upside. I’ve personally been riding carbon bikes for a pile of years, but I have to be honest and say that I wouldn’t mind having one in my stable… just gotta figure out how to sneak it into the garage without getting busted! Answering the questions: Let’s go back to that initial set of questions and see if we can plug in some suggestions: What is your budget? If price isn’t an issue, we say go with carbon and consider titanium if you’re looking for a bomb proof bike! Yes, some people are still in love with steel (steel is real they say!), and to that we say, to each their own… go get one if this is you! If price is a factor, a lower modulus carbon bike or aluminum bike would be a great option. If you’re a racer, there is a lot to be said for both, so look at weight and cost. If you can get an inexpensive snappy aluminum bike that leaves some room in the budget for some nice race wheels, that might be your ticket. If you’re more of a recreational rider looking for some comfort on your longer rides, definitely look at the carbon options. What kind of riding to you plan to be doing and how often will you be doing it? Racing: See above. Commuting: If you can afford it, titanium could be your forever bike! Otherwise, if you’re on a budget or looking for something that will stand up to the elements while not breaking the bank, consider aluminum. Recreational: If you don’t have a budget to adhere to, you probably already have something in mind. That said, what are you waiting for?! If budget is an issue, and you only see yourself riding a hand full of times per year, go find a nice aluminum bike that puts a smile on your face. We only challenge you to ride it as much as possible so you find yourself in the category of being a cyclists instead of someone who rides from time to time… We would love to issue you your official cyclist membership card! If you ride a little more frequently and think you might get the itch to ride more competitively, even if it’s just chasing some of your local Strava segments, consider the long game and the performance you might want out of your bike when making your decision. If you’re just in it for logging a lot of miles to see some beautiful countryside, find a good carbon bike that suits your budget and get to pedaling! Are you the hard-core I’m gonna ride in all weather conditions type, or are you hard on bikes? All bikes are an option, but consider staying away from steel. An aluminum rig just might be the best option out there if the cost of a titanium bike is out of the question. Carbon can be a good option, too, but there is something to be said about carbon bikes and the increase chance of taking a spill when it’s slick out there. We love our local carbon repair shops who do amazing work, but I would personally prefer to keep that $500-$700 repair cost in my wallet. Is a used bike potentially an option for you? This is actually a great way to get a new to you bike… That is if you know what to look for. The last thing you want is to be buying someone else’s problem, a bike that has some major issues that you’re unaware of, and worst of all, a stolen bike. That’s not to say that there are not some great bikes out there! Shops with consignment programs and businesses that buy and sell used bikes are generally a great resource as they can help you get the right bike for you that is clean, inspected, tuned up, and in some cases, a bike that comes with a service warranty that provides valuable peace of mind. We know this because we have helped hundreds of people on both sides of this equation through our used bike consignment program! So, if you’re ok with a bike that doesn’t have the latest and greatest tech on it, has seen a few miles, but still wants to go log some fun miles with a new riding buddy, the used bike market can be a fantastic option. We do suggest that if you are not super comfortable with determining if a bike has issues that you grab a friend who does know a thing or two, or find a shop willing to do an inspection for you. This might cost a few bucks, but again, it’s better than getting stuck with someone else’s problem. As for picking the right used bike, you can still lean on everything said above while paying less in the end. Still have questions? All of this jargon and information is great, but there is also a chance that it possibly further complicated matters for you. You might be asking yourself, “Is there really that big of a difference?” “Do I need to go faster?” “Is the extra cost going to be worth it?” These are all valid questions! Some additional suggestions to help you out would be to focus on two or three bike options that would work for you and your budget, talk to others in your cycling community about what their thoughts are on their respective bikes, read some forums about the bikes that you have identified as being a good fit for you, and then find a shop that carries said bikes so you can hopefully do a few test rides. If possible, see if you can get out there for a few miles on each bike so you can get a good idea of how it feels. One note, though… There can be a pretty big difference between how the bikes feel based on wheels and drivetrain, so be sure to keep this in mind when doing your test rides. In an ideal world, using the same wheels would be a great way to better compare apples to apples, but that might be asking a bit much of your LBS. We are here for you! We hope this helps you in your quest to research bikes! Hopefully you have a few bikes in mind now, or at least what kind of frame your future bike will have. There is also a lot to be said when it comes to wheels, drivetrains, and other components, so stay tuned for another entry that will hopefully be of help through your bike selection process! If you have any questions, are considering a bike that we carry at the Dialed Cycling Lab, or need some assistance with anything, don’t hesitate to reach out as we are always happy to help!
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Best Multi-Tools for Cycling?
Best Multi-Tool for Cycling? Let’s take a look at a few great options! Best Multi-Tools for Cycling? More times than not, the simple pleasure of a bike ride can do wonders for us. Whether it be for the exercise, adrenaline rush, or the draw of just being outside, riding a bike is almost always an awesome experience (operative word there being *almost). If you ride bikes, chances are you have experienced some sort of mechanical at some point… Tire puncture, loose bolt, squeaky drivetrain, wonky flux capacitor… You get the picture. These either annoy the heck out of us cyclists, or they stop us dead in our tracks. So, the question is, do you have the tools and know how to get back to enjoying your two wheeled adventure? Let’s start with the first part of that question. What are you packing in your saddle bag in the way of tools? Do you know what you need? Since none of us wants to roll around with a full-on tool chest in your pack, let’s talk multi tools made for cycling. Whether it be for riding road, gravel, mountain, or commuting, here are a few multi tools we recommend and some tips to help you avoid being stuck on the side of the road or trail. “…do a thorough inspection of your entire bike so you know what you’re working with.” Know what you need! Not all bikes were created the same. They have different bolts, nuts, screws, and so on, so the first thing we recommend is that you do a thorough inspection of your entire bike so you know what you’re working with. Chances are that the one thing that breaks will be the one tool you don’t have with you to fix it. Also, most bikes will need metric tools, but you should make sure that you’re not dealing with anything in the imperial world (it sure would be nice if the US, Liberia, and Myanmar would join the rest of the world and use the metric system!). Once you have a good list of the bolts, screws, and fittings you’re working with, it’s time to choose the right tool for you. For my bike, I know I need a 3,4,5, and 6mm hex wrench and a T25 torx bit, but my bike is pretty straight forward and simple. I do know that I will need a 2mm hex if I want to adjust / trim the front derailleur, but that seldom needs to be done, so I generally don’t take a 2mm hex with me (this is where I kick myself for jinxing my next ride). Your bike also has a chain, and like a lot of people these days, you might be setup tubeless – these are two more things you’ll need to take into consideration when deciding on the right multi tool, because like bikes, these items are also not all created equal. Finally, know the angles you’re working with and the spaces you’ll need to make your tool fit into in order to access all of these wonderfully integrated and hidden screws (read: beautiful, but complete pains in the arse…). This is one more thing you’ll need to keep in mind as sometimes, some tools can be too long or too short for your particular needs… again, been there at the most inopportune times! One final note, be sure to get familiar with whatever tool you decide on, and a little practice with it will help you feel much more confident when you actually need to use it. There are a bunch of multi-tools to choose from, but here are three different options we really like a lot! Learn more Learn more Learn more The Crankbrothers M20 This beast has pretty much everything, including the proverbial kitchen sink! You’ve got all the different hex wrench options: a chain tool, an open wrench, multiple screwdrivers, a tire plug tool, tire plugs, a valve core removal tool, a disc brake rotor straightener, spoke wrenches, and multiple Torx wrenches. No joke, you can almost start a bike service business with the M20, and if I had to be honest, I have grabbed this a few times while working on bikes at the Lab because someone else was using the fancy schmancy shop tool I needed at the moment. Given everything bolted to the M20, $39.99 is a pretty reasonable price… especially when you add up what it would cost to get each of these tools individually. So, why doesn’t everyone just stop the search here and pick up one of these for all of their cycling needs? Well, first off, and like my mom always told me, variety is the spice of life, so take a look at all the options before tying the knot. Secondly, this monster is built like a pro linebacker… powerful but big! They are 89mm in length (3.5 inches for you imperial holdouts), and weigh in at a whopping 203g (just shy of a half-pound). If you’re new to the cycling world, weight counts and weight weenies are a real thing, and lighter bikes come at a premium. So, we do our best to save weight when and where we can. Aside from the size penalty, the Crankbrothers M20 is a fantastic option that comes in some pretty cool colors, and it’s a quality tool that will last for many, many years. The Silca Italian Army Knife Venti You had us at Silca. When we think about quality products, Silca undoubtedly is one of the first brands that jump to mind, and their Italian Army Knife Venti definitely does not miss the mark here with its forged and plated steel tools. Much like the M20, it too has a lot to offer with its chain breaker, storage for a chain master link, 2mm to 8mm hex tools, four Torx wrenches, Phillips screwdrivers, box wrench, flare nut wrench, open end wrench disc brake pad spreader, valve core remover, and spoke wrenches. It also weighs about 21% less than the M20, but at $55, it’s a bit more expensive. The only thing that we truly wish it had was some sort of tubeless plug system, but it’s not a deal breaker by any means. Other than that, this is a fine piece of craftsmanship that could potentially last you for the rest of your life if you don’t lose the darn thing (speaking from a place of experience)! The Pebble Tool by PNW Components The Pebble came out in late 2022, and we immediately fell in love with this little gem! To quote PNW, “It’s no bigger than your favorite fun-sized piece of Halloween candy, with all the bits to bail you out of your most common biking mishaps without the added weight of feeling like you packed half a toolbox in your shorts.” This goes back to the bit I mentioned above about knowing what you need for your bike. Personally, I don’t need 60% of the items on your typical multi-tool for most of my riding, so when I first saw the Pebble, my eyes lit up! Oh, and what is this?! It has an integrated Dynaplug system, which is absolutely my favorite tubeless tire plug and the best option on the market! For all of you weight weenies out there, it weighs a measly 51g, which is 75% less than the M20, and 68% lighter than the Silca. In addition to the Dynaplug, it has a T25 Torx, and 3-6mm hex wrenches. Simple, light, and effective. So, what is the downside, you ask? Well, for the third time, not all bikes are built the same, so if you have a specific tool need that is not on this minimalist design, you could be up a river without a paddle someday if this was the only tool you had with you. Also, the tools are a little on the short side, so make sure they will be a good match for your bike. The one glaring omission for me would be the lack of a chain tool. Again, I’m going to jinx myself one more time (knocks on wood), but I have not broken a chain while on a ride since the summer of 2007, so I like my odds if I don’t always have one with me. However, I toss a small chain tool in my bag when jumping on a bike and heading off-grid. There are some options out there, like the Park Tool Mini Chain Tool, that work great, which is why I keep this exact tool around. The Pebble is a fantastic multi-tool if it checks most (if not all) of your boxes. So, which one is best for you? Well, it’s tough to go wrong with just about all of them, but there are for sure some things to take into consideration here. Depending on what kind of riding you like to do, your budget, tire setup, if you’re a prepper or minimalist, or what you simply think is the coolest looking tool (there’s always the cool factor), you could make a case for any one of these multi tools. If I was going on a long ride in the middle of nowhere or on a bike packing adventure, I’m most certainly going to grab the Crankbrothers M20 or Silca Italian Army Knife Venti over the Pebble so I can have a better chance of pulling a MacGyver to get myself out of a jam (for those too young to know what I’m talking about, let IMBD be your friend and start binge watching immediately!). For pretty much all of my local rides and races, the Pebble will be with me at all times. Heck, if you can swing it, get a Pebble and either the M20 or Silca so you can choose your weapon based on your ride plans. At the end of the day, just make sure you have something as you don’t want to tempt fate by riding alone without the essentials. And for the moochers out there, it’s a lot cheaper in the long run to just spring for the tool as opposed to constantly buying beer and/or coffee for your cycling friends as a means of saying thank you for bumming their tools! Thanks for reading, and as always, hit us up with any questions you might have… Happy riding from all of us here at the Dialed Cycling Lab!
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Cush Core Tire Insert - Unboxing, review and setup!
We unbox, review, and walk you through the setup process of the Cush Core tire inserts. Does improved suspension, better cornering, a smoother ride, and increased speed & performance interest you? If so, we think you’ll like these a lot!
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Best quick wash method for your bike? We put 4 to the test!
We all love riding our bike and getting a little dirty in the process, but we don’t always have a bunch of time to super clean the bike after said ride. So, which sub 5-minute bike wash application yields the best results? Let’s find out so we can keep your rig looking good and riding fast! Did we miss something, or do you have any additional suggestions? Let us know in comments, we’d love to hear from you!
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Riding at Night: Best practices and what you need
With shorter days and/or demanding schedules that eat up all of the daylight, you might be thinking about riding outside at night. Here are some best practices and gear that you might want to consider. Ride safe, have fun, and thanks for watching!!
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Road Bike Essentials You’ll Want and Need
Here is a break down of all the Road Bike Essentials you’ll need, and probably a few that you might want to consider. We cover everything from the basics to some technology that could save your life!
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Indoor Cycling - Choosing a Trainer, Accessories, and App
Indoor cycling is more popular than ever, and with that comes a boat load of options, so let us help you make some decisions! We run though some different trainer options, accessories, and apps to choose from… We hope it helps you make some decisions!
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Garmin Varia RTL515 Radar - Should you be using one?
We unbox it, go through the specs, discuss how we use it, and run through the top 5 reasons why you should consider using the Varia RTL515 as well. We feel like we are riding naked when not using radar… But is it a must have?
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Gravel Bike Essentials
Are you getting into gravel riding or thinking about riding some remote gravel roads? Here is our list of items that you should consider having before getting out on that ride.
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Mountain Biking Essentials
Our list of mountain biking essentials for novice riders, seasoned pros, and everyone in between… What you will need to have fun, be safe, and to save your bacon in the event of an emergency.
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Kings Valley Road Race | Race Report | Masters 40+ 3/4/5
2018 Kings Valley Road Race | Masters 40+ 3/4/5 by Chris Hanel – April 14, 2018 Race: Kings Valley Road Race (53 miles, 2700 ft) Category: Men’s Masters 40+ 3/4/5 Team: Chris Hanel (1st), Shaun Martin (12th), Jake von Duering (5th) Background: I had ridden King’s Valley Road Race last year (2017) for the 1st time. It was the single most miserable biking experience of my life in regards to weather. I had never been that cold in all my life, and no, I’m not exaggerating. I’ve spent a week hunting/camping in the Strawberry Mountain Wilderness where the temperature never broke freezing, and was never as cold as I was at KVRR 2017. Being soaking wet, not properly clothed for the weather, and riding in the wind at speed in a hailstorm while Rob Tornai attacks was not a pleasant experience. I would drop back a bit from the pack on descents because I was shaking so bad I was afraid I’d lose control of the handlebars. Advantage: 1. Smaller field of riders. 2. Finally, some hills, which for those of us racing for DCT in the Masters 40 – 49 for this race is generally a good thing. 3. Course is familiar to all of us. 4. Weather was suppose to cooperate…hopefully. 5. Jake, Shaun, and I had a full hour of riding on Zwift earlier in the week and we discussed race tactics/scenarios/plans the whole time. Disadvantage: 1. The memory of the year before was still haunting me. 2. It was a strong field. Of the 22 in the 3,4,5 field, 1 was cat 5, and 7 of us were cat 4s. The other 2/3s of the group were cat 3s. There were suppose to be crosswinds/headwinds, which can be a mixed blessing depending on the situation. Plan: 1st lap – sit in and conserve. Watch. Only chase something if it looks/feels legit/threatening (I’m looking at you Hanel). If there is nothing crazy going on the 1st time we hit the climb, and I’m feeling O.K., Jake gave me the green light to go for the beer prime. Second lap around, Jake will make a hard effort a few miles before the climb. There should be some crosswind/headwind in that section and he should be able to trigger some hard efforts by the guys that are always there to mark him. Jake gets them to work as best he can for a couple miles leading into the climb, then backs off. During this time, Shaun and I are to be conserving in the chase/peloton. We should be catching Jake and anyone with him once we hit the climb proper, and at that point, Shaun and I counter hard going up the climb and try to get a gap. If we can get away alone, or with 1 or 2 others, great. The Peloton will have to make some hard choices and we’ll live with the results either way. Plan B through Z are always the same if plan A doesn’t work. Get Jake to the bottom of the climb and the rest takes care of itself. Race: At the start, we sized up who was there, and from what teams, and it seemed we weren’t at a disadvantage in regards to numbers/teammates, which was a good thing. We had agreed to take it easy on the first of the 3 laps and just watch and play defense. Shaun hung out up front playing some overwatch while Jake and I hung out the back. I watched Jake do his high cadence warm up thing he does on the 1st lap and I had to tell him my obligatory “this pace is killing me. I feel like I gotta do something” line (which is easy to say when you’re sitting in the pack the whole 1st lap). I told him previously that I was going to try for the beer prime on offer for the 1st to the top of the main climb that is finish line on the 1st lap around, but only if the pace dictated. I have a lot of trouble being patient in races and I would often pay for it at the end of races last year. Well the pace was pretty tame. Not that I was doing anything about it. The 4/5s passed our group on the back flat stretch leading up to the turn of the climb, and I decided then that I was definitely gonna give a go the 1st time up the climb because somebody has to do something. We hit the beginning of the climb and I gradually worked my way up toward the front. We hit the early flatter section of the climb and I go to work at the front. The group responds and there’s some guys on my wheel. I slow it down for a short bit and then hit it again and get some separation. I get a gap right around the time a single 4/5 rider comes around to try and chase back on to the group that passed us. So we get neutralized a bit while this guy goes by, and the peloton respects the small gap I had (this is why I love racing Masters – stand up guys, the lot of them) while the vehicles get sorted and we give this guy some space. So the guy gets up there and the race is back on…sort of. This guy has about 50 yards on me now with the vehicle right behind him, but he’s not going the speed he was when he passed us. I’m having to hold back on what I want to be doing because I want to give this guy a chance to get himself and the vehicle ahead a bit. I don’t want to be the guy that drafted the vehicle up the climb and kept “that one guy” from being able to chase back on to his group. I’m keeping my distance, but this guy is slowing me down. The gap to the peloton is staying about the same and I’m wondering if they’re watching the same channel I am. It’s like we’re all in some kind of limbo for about 3 minutes. Finally, I wave my hand at the lead car in a “move along because I want to start climbing and this guy is just gonna have to pass us again some other time” and within 5 seconds, the car pulls around the rider and moves on – man those volunteers are on it and I continue to be so impressed by them. So, I’m off and headed up the climb with beer in mind (I so rarely drink the stuff, but I want to be able to give my teammates something at the end of the day). I go hard the last couple of kilometers and yell “Beer Me!” at the top the climb. I had a decent gap last I looked about halfway up the climb so I figured, “O.K., I’ll just do what I can on the downhill side, nothing crazy, but maybe enough to shake something loose. If (when) I get caught, no harm/no foul, got the team some beer, and we go back to plan A.” I take a look back before I settle into my TT position and see an orange jersey charging over the top of the climb. Now all kinds of thoughts are running. “Is it Jake or Shaun (again, my far vision sucks)? Should I totally back off and wait, should I halfway back off and wait, or do they have help with them and should I hammer it knowing that they will catch up and not compromise any gap they may have.” I settled on halfway because the guy in orange was staying in front, which meant if there was someone with him, they weren’t helping at the time. I twirl my finger in the air letting them know I see them and i am anxiously awaiting that rotating pain known as “attempted breakaway.” It’s Jake…and wait for it…Webster. I have history with Webster in my short 1 year career of racing. My mind flashes back to Silverton Road Race 2017 when Jake and I attempted a breakaway and he was along for the ride. He did help, eventually, in that break, but I was a bit bitter about the effort at that time. He was also in the break at Montinore Road Race with me and again, I felt like the contribution could have been better. He also followed Danny and I up the final climb at Montinore and came around us both at the very end for the win. So yeah, I tend to hold grudges sometimes, even if they’re not founded. I don’t know if he helped Jake bridge at all or not, but to his credit, once we got joined up, he took his turns and was not holding back, best I could tell. So there is redemption for some and he definitely earned some respect back from me. We worked fairly diligently, but it was always gonna be a tough ask to keep a gap on a downhill into a headwind. We did make it to the corner and mild crosswind section near the staging area before the peloton caught up. I was a bit dejected, but not completely deflated. I knew it was long shot, but there was just too much energy yet in the peloton and too much of a threat with Jake up front. Back to Plan A. We settle back in the pack and Shaun goes back to guard duty toward the front. Jake tells me he lost a water bottle because he somehow kicked it out of it’s holder on the climb. Must be a high power thing I’m not familiar with. I offer to switch him bottles. I don’t drink much during a race and still have quite a bit in my bottle. He declines – the dummy. I think the real reason he declined is 2 fold, #1 – he thinks I have herpes and #2 – the green bottle would clash terribly with his BMC red. He’s likely right on #1. 80% of the world does. As we’re cruising along in the second lap, Gregg Steele tells me he did help pull us back after the climb, but he’ll be damned if he’s gonna keep doing that because he’s not gonna repeat the cramps he had at Piece of Cake Road Race for all the work he did. Things are fairly controlled for the rest of the western and northern segments of lap 2 and then we get to about where Plan A is suppose to kick off and something weird happens. Shaun floats off the front. And he keeps floating. With my bad vision, I think there is someone with him. Jake is on the inside toward the front. I’m working my way up near the centerline toward the front. I pull up next to Jake just a few spots back from the front of the group. By this point, Shaun has a pretty good gap going and he’s chugging away up there. Seems like he’s been up front all day. I ask Jake what he thinks about me going to join him. I can’t remember exactly what Jake said because in my own mind I had already decided I was going to try and join him and even if he said no, I was gonna convince him otherwise. I do remember him shrugging his shoulders and saying something along the lines of “maybe” and “worth a shot” and “nothing crazy,” but again, I don’t remember for sure. It’s not Plan A as we drew up, but it’s fairly close. {Jake: “It’s worth a shot, but don’t take anyone with you” is what I believe was said.} So I make a decent dig to the front to see if they’ll just let me go join Shaun. Rob Tornai jumps on my wheel and we go hard for short bit and he goes around me and pulls for a bit. I wouldn’t mind bringing Rob along for the fun, but there’s still guys on my wheel and I don’t want to pull the group back to Shaun. Rob backs off the throttle a bit and I sit on his wheel. I’m boxed in with Rob in front pulling and a guy to my left and back of me and he’s not moving. So I wait. Eventually, the guy backs off a bit and Rob pulls over and I grab the drops, pull up next to him, look at Rob, and say, “what do you think?” to see if he wants to come. I don’t wait for an answer and I hit it hard (for me, anyway). He doesn’t come along, and amazingly, neither does anyone else. Fantastic! Now it’s just slogging across the crosswind/headwind to Shaun and this other guy and it’s GO TIME baby! I bridge to Shaun just before the turn to the climb. On the way, I figure out I really do need to get some glasses for racing because it’s just him, and there is no other rider. As we hit the climb, completely ignoring the fact that Shaun has been policing the front all day and he just worked his butt off for 2 – 3 miles in a cross/headwind solo, I say something along the lines of “I just wanna make em’ hurt a bit Shaun. Let’s make em’ hurt.” It could be that I’m not a good person – but that’s a topic for another day. We got about 23 miles to go. So, Shaun and I get our pain on. From this point on, other than a couple glances back to Shaun, I do not look back to see if there is chasers or what kind of gap or whatever. I tell Shaun at some other point during this torturous folly that “we are committed, we are fully committed!” To be honest, I don’t know if he hears me, hates me, wants me to just shut up and get on with it, or what. When racing, as in life, Shaun is a man of few words, and more a man of action. Now this is the second time over the climb, and the second breakaway. Why would the result be any different the second time? The difference being as follows: 1. It is later in the race, so there is some fatigue setting in all of us. 2. Jake is back in the peloton, and 3. it’s just Shaun and me up front. They probably don’t think we’re much of a threat. They don’t know much about Shaun and me, or how big a can of whoop-ass we can actually carry. And if they do respond with vigor, they are burning matches and just giving Jake a free ride along the way – and they already know that’s a big can of whoop-ass to give a free ride to. I figure if Shaun and I can at least get to the staging area while still having a decent gap, they would have a hard time catching us in the western/northern tailwind section of the course. We keep hammering. The car pulls next to us telling us we got a 30 second gap. Then 40 seconds. Then we get to the staging area. We got about a 35 second gap. We keep going. We start hitting the smaller climbs on the Western segment of the course. Gravity starts rearing it’s cruel head at Shaun. He tells me to go on, and I convince him to get over the climb with me. Selfishly, I need his respite hammering on the flats/descents. He obliges. He does not oblige me on the next climb. He tells me to “go on” (I think, my hearing is almost as bad as my eyesight. He could have been telling me to F*** Off). Now I have to make a decision quickly. Do I hang back and recover with Shaun a bit and we press on together, or do I keep hammering until I fall apart. We haven’t gotten any recent time gaps, so I’m not sure where we are at. I put myself in Shaun’s shoes and I know I would be pissed off if I did all that work and then he didn’t go when I told him to go and things didn’t work out – or at least that is what I told myself in the brief instance to rationalize my actions, and thus, I pressed on. I really should have talked to Shaun before writing this. Now I’m by myself. I got a tailwind, some rollers with some flat sections, and just my own thoughts. The first 2, I love. The latter can be a problem. I figure if I just go balls out on the northern section I can hold them off in the tailwind. It will be the open eastern segment in the cross/headwind heading up to the final climb that will be the problem. I figure I’ll deal with that when it comes and I go hard in the meantime. I’m feeling pretty good, because who doesn’t on rollers with a tailwind. I don’t get a time check the whole time I’m on the northern section. After the race, I looked at the Strava “Fly-By” and it looked like there was another rider (Rob DeAngelo from Bend) that was trying to bridge with us right around the time that Shaun and I separated. He got awfully close. But then, on the Fly-By, you see Shaun and him come together and Shaun must have grabbed his wheel and made him tow him along because they hang out there between me and the peloton for a while and slowly get drawn back in to the pack. I’ll wait for Shaun’s report, but dang, I owe you so much for this race Shaun. So glad you’re my teammate. Then I hit the corner to turn south on the eastern section. Crap. Now I’m starting to slowly die. I do not do well mentally in a headwind or crosswind. I look at my watts, and when it’s not dropping out, it’s not looking great. I’m trying to stay low into the wind. The car pulls up and says “4-0, 4-0” and I shake my head. This section is just starting. I’m losing a bit of confidence. Then I think of my friend Andy’s phone call the night before. “They don’t know what you can do Chris. They have no idea.” Damn straight, Andy. I keep trying to keep the thoughts positive and thinking of the people who have sacrificed just so I could be out here riding today in a silly bike race that for whatever reason, means a lot to us crazy people that ride bikes like this. I finally get to the corner heading up the climb. Just before the corner, car pulls up and he yells, “4-0, 4-0.” I shake my head again and gasp at him “not enough,” as if he can magically add some more time for me. I turn up the climb. I’ve been at limit for about an hour now. My heart rate has not gone below 170. And now I have to climb. I honestly don’t know if I’m gonna just blow or not. My rev-limiter is on and I’m just taking whatever my lungs, heart, and legs will give me. I get a little ways up the climb. Car comes up, “3-5, 3-5.” I keep turning the pedals, head down most of time. Again, never looking back. Passing occasional guys from the 4/5 group, I assume, that give words of encouragement. I can’t even give them a glance or nod. I’m just gasping and driving the legs and wanting it to be over. Dreading being caught and swamped on the yet to arrive final pitch, after being so close. Suffering halfway through the flatter section of the climb, the car pulls up, “3-0, 3-0, and they are mounting a chase behind you!” I can’t even acknowledge him at this point in the suffering. But I’m thinking, “Why did you tell me that! I have nothing left to put into these pedals than what I’m putting out right now at this very point in time! You could tell me “Jaws is 30 seconds behind you and he is going to eat and devour you for lunch and you will cease to exist…good luck,” and I still couldn’t go any faster than I am right at this moment! I’m getting towards the end of the flatter section of the climb to where it gradually starts to kick up and eventually leads into the final pitch. Car pulls up beside me for the last time, “You’re still at 30 seconds, you’re still at 30 seconds! Come on! You can do this!” The guy sounds excited and I absolutely love him for it. I give him a little fist shake with my left and keep driving and gasping. I hit the 1 KM sign and I’m thinking “This might actually happen. Just take a look back to make sure those aren’t wheels you hear sprinting up on you. No! don’t fricken’ look back you idiot! You can’t do anything about what’s behind you anyway. You’re already doing what you can. Just keep pedaling!” I don’t look back. I stand up and try to throw my weight into the pedals at the 200M sign. It doesn’t really make much of a difference. I cross the line head down, gasping, wheezing, and people looking at me with an expression of, “Crap, this guy might just keel over on us…I hope not, because I don’t want to have to deal with that kinda crap today.” It’s over. Ah man, It’s over! It’s more relief than joy. Not even relief that the pain was over, but relief that I didn’t let myself or my teammates down. Without teammates, this result just doesn’t happen. And that is why DCT rocks!
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Kings Valley Road Race | Race Report
2018 Kings Valley Road Race by Michael Myers – April 14, 2018 Race: Kings Valley Road Race (53 miles, 2700 ft) Category: Men’s Masters 50+ and 60+ Team: Ian Gibson (8th) Whitney Phillips (7th), Micheal Myers (3rd) / 60: Jay Hamlin (7th) Having suffered through the previous year’s whether, both Ian and I spent more time with pre-race kit considerations than race strategy. We decided to see how the race unfolded and respond accordingly…..mistake. Knowing this was a hard race, we decided to be conservative on the first lap. I was so far back that I did not pay attention to a couple of guys who went off the front within the first few miles. All the strong riders were accounted for so surely they would get reeled in at some point….. On lap two, we made our way forward and began testing the waters. I made one dig, but the rider that came with me was not ideal, so I sat up. Whitney was next to go and did have one other to work with. I slotted in behind the guy who began the chase. When he turned for help I gave him a cordial smile. Another line of riders came up to begin the chase. I attempted to disrupt by faking a jump but they did not take the bait. Eventually Whitney was reeled in. Going into the 3rd lap I saw a pace-car ahead and we brought that rider in. Mistakingly I thought we were whole. Only half of the group was left with Jay Hamlin being one of the victims of the vertical nature of the course. Ian and Whitney looked good. We knew that there was a headwind coming up the climb so positioning was paramount. Coming into the last 1K, I dropped back to see where my most feared competitors where. I Knew their strategy. Grab Myers wheel and come around him with 200 meters. Not rocket science here. When I saw the typical top five riders ducking behind the group spread across the rode, I swung right and rode up the alley. After a 30 second effort I took a peek. Two came with but small gap to the rest. Not knowing, at that time, who I was with, I thought it best not to try to ride away from them. I sat up and took 3rd wheel. With about 300 meters I saw we had the gap so I decided to jump there. I was as excited as a little school girl….I WON…..or had I. Well, come to find out, those two guys who were not much based on racing history, worked so well together they stayed away and took the top two spots. Ian and Whitney played the finish beautifully, using the field and positioning themselves to get great placings. Jay Hamlin won the most tenacious rider of the day award taking 7th without the benefit of a draft for some of the race.
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